Monday, January 22, 2007

Gran Premio Ramirez: A Day at the Uruguayan Derby




Por Una Cabeza, de un noble potrillo......

those are the lyrics to my favorite tango. Years ago, during my first visit to Uruguay, I heard that song at a friend's house. I thought (I did not listen to the lyrics with attention) that it was one of the most beautiful love songs ever written. The next day when I looked up the lyrics, I found out that the song was about love, but not for a human being! The person was singing his heart out for a noble horse, his admiration for gambling and the heartbreak at the end! Lovely isn't it.

Titi and I arrived in the hippodrome around 12, as she was going to work that day, dressed her up in a colonial outfit so that she will stroll around the excited gamblers and gauchos all day long. Gran Premio Ramirez (the Ramirez Prize) is the most important derby in this country and people all around the country were there, some cowboys, some ranch owners, gamblers, and loose people from the neighborhood who had nothing better to do than paying 2 dollars and hang out there for the whole day. I got a VIP pass thanks to Titi and with her new boyfriend, entered the VIP section where you could clearly tell all the Uruguyan upper class (especially from the country side, i.e. latifundistas) were there. Women were eating and drinking together at the restaurants where men were grouped around the podium, checking out the horses, and then betting on them on many registers available. Gambling is legal and almost promoted in this country, so even little boys were betting.

I have never gambled in my life before. I wanted to play baccarat in Monte Carlo when I was 12, but got caught and the security asked me kindly to leave the premises, because I was "too young". After that episode, I have been in casinos, only to leave immediatly because it made me feel bad to watch people (gamblers) so desperate looking in front of stupid machines. My fantasies about playing roulette or black jack, all dressed up in MC is way too nice than sitting next to a smelly midwesterner in Las Vegas, drinking and gambling himself to death!

I was ready this time. It was an important horse race and I thought: while losing heavily on love, I should win the biggest price in this derby! We waited till it was time for the most important race, getting buzzed with free drinks at the VIP room, and when it was time, I betted on the surprise horse, a beautiful Arabian black baby, number 5. Got my ticket and went closer to the finish line. The race started, people were screaming, jumping around, the whole hippodrome was on fire with energy like I have never felt in this country. I actually saw passion in their eyes. What a relief.

My horse was getting closer, and suddenly was at the first place! Yuppyyyyy..Then appeared number 12, getting closer, closer, and the race was over. I still had hope. We waited, holding our breathe until the final decision was posted on the billboard. Winner: Numero 12 !

Por una cabeza (with a head difference) I lost.

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