Tuesday, February 20, 2007

So much to do before Asli G. Wedding, so little time

Upon my arrival to Istanbul I called up my best friend and started helping her with all the necesary --and unncessary--things that have to ben done before her big day. We spent hours at the hairdressers, then made hundreds of wedding favors, and other small things, but my favorite was her bachelerotte party!

As a psedo-foreigner in the city, I was not sure what to do for her party, thank god Ayca thought of an amazing idea: a day at the HAMAM!

None of us have done the traditional turkish bath before (we should have, after the first time I am hooked already) and had no idea what to expect. We closed to 500 year old Galatasaray Hamam (located behind our fabulous highschool) for four of us, and took Asli there as a surprise. She could not even guessed what we planned her until she got there and was happy with our small plan.

We entered this foreign land, with our bathrobes and flipflops on our hands (asli's mom bought us hamam sets before hand). The owner of the place was unexpectedly young and modern, and behind her there were 4 older ladies, on the other side of the lobby there was a table set up for us with food and drinks, and a gipsy band (all female) and a belly dancer waved at us from another room. We were each given a private changin room, so we got rid of our clothes and put a pestemal (a rectangular cotton fabric you wrap around you) and very Jean Paul Gaultierish wooden sandals (they are the traditional bath sandals though, he copied them so did Prada in the late 90s) . The owner explained to us that we shall sweat for a little bit, then be exfoliated, then eat and dance, and later they would soap us and bath us.

Taking a Turkish bath firstly involves relaxing in a room (known as the warm room) that is heated by a continuous flow of hot dry air allowing the bather to perspire freely. Bathers may then move to an ever hotter room (known as the hot room) before splashing themselves with cold water. After performing a full body wash and receiving a massage, bathers finally retire to the cooling-room for a period of relaxation.



We asked them to serve us cold beer after a while at the steam room, and after a can of beer each, due to the heat we were buzzed! We were giggily and anxious to see what was going to happen. Then the door opened, and a lady, younger than the other ones appeared in her cheesy black underwear holding a glove. She looked more like a cheap hooker than a hammam personel, she asked with a sweet voice who wanted to go first (for exfoliation) and we suggested Tanji, Asli's friend from college who had been in a bath before. She bravely went and lay down in front of her. We all watched her getting her skin peeled off, but she seemed confortable. I volunteered next, mostly out of curiosity. I really did not want to lose my great tan before the wedding but getting a baby soft skin was a great idea.

I lay down in front of her, the hot marble burning my ass, and shut my eyes, I rather fantasized about George Clooney washing me instead of a cheap whore looking bath worker, she scrubbed all my body, throughly, turning me around, and shortly she was like "Ok, you're done, who's next!" We left the bride to be for last, and when she was done, we showered and went in to the lobby area to eat and listen to gipsies.

It was so much fun to belly dance on top of the uncomfortable slippers with our towels falling off, gipsies playing known tunes to our ears, turkish mezes served and some more cold beer helping us to bear with this surreal activity overall. I am sure we were all trying to erase the picture of the scrubbing lady's saggy tits moving in front of our noses half an hour ago (I never understood why she was naked)!!!

I dont know how much time we spend there, we were then asked to go back so that they could soap us with their special lavender soaps, and they did, then washed our hair, clean the bath and closed it after us.
All we could do after the hammam was to get a drink at a near bar, but we were so exhausted we all went home and dreamt of being washed just like this but by hot men (at least that is what I dreamt!) all the time!

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Istanbul in Winter

I left Uruguay, right in the middle of its beautiful sunny days, beaches, my friends. I felt like "euw winter" while getting on the plane, but when I landed to Miami, held by my brother and spend a couple of days resting at his new apartment (he is a homeowner now) I felt better and started to get ready for my best friend's wedding which was going to take place in Istanbul, in ten days.

Aside from relaxing and trying to erase the biggest self-indulgent asshole I have dated for the last couple of months, my main goal was to find the perfect dress for the event. I knew that if I went to NY I'd probably found an amazing dress, but on a second thought, I did not want to suffer through the city's below 0 temperatures, so I bagged it.

Starting from the most obvious places (Neiman's, Aventura Mall, etc) to the thrift stores I looked all around (I even opened some of my boxes to see if I had anything interesting inside them). I found an incredible red dress, when least expecting, on the bottom of a sale pile in a store, and fell in love with it. I knew finding shoes and a bag that goes with it was not going to be easy but, the dress was spectacular and I had to wear it no matter what.

Even though my dear Chantal was not there, and the weather did not help me get more tanned, I had a good break before the wedding, healed my wounds (ok, I am exagerating, I forgot about everything that happened in Uruguay in a day) and mentally made myself ready in order to attend a wedding, not any wedding though, the one that I was sure I would be asked every five minutes "when was I going to get married, now that my best friend was married."

I left Miami after a week, flew to NYC, waited at the airport for 5 hours--thanks to my mother who gave me a VIP pass, I spend the whole time at Delta's business lounge, getting a massage from a chair, stretching my body, awesomeeee---and slept through the whole flight all the way to Istanbul.

As mom was not living there anymore, this was my first time arriving to an empty airport, noone to look for, I walked to the next available cab, got in, and took of for the Asian side where home is. I asked the driver to take the longest yet nicest road, looking at the beautiful Marmara Sea and then the Bosphorus, thinking what am I doing living somewhere other than this incredible city...